Dubrovnik

Friday 28th June


As we arrived in port a day early Nicoletta arranged a morning transfer at 10.30 to take us into the old town. She gave us a short orientation tour telling us if we wanted lunch on board to be back by 1pm. Local buses 1A, 1B, 3 or 8 from Pile Gate would take us to the port for the sum of 12 kuna. We found our accommodation for the next day and walked town to the harbour walls to find a cool spot. It was 38 deg in the shade. We took a 12.30 bus back to the boat.

The port area had a couple of small shopping areas so we investigated those when it became a little cooler.

That night was the Captain’s Farewell dinner at 8pm with live traditional kappa music. Two musicians entertained us between courses, one playing a guitar the other a piano accordion.

Saturday 29th June

After breakfast and goodbyes, our transfer to Pile Gate was at 10.15am. By the time we arrived there it was 11.15. The walk to Roko House was easy and with a restaurant underneath the guy there phoned someone to say we’d arrived. Ljerke was finishing  our room which we could move straight into. Fortunately it was on the 1st floor. A very comfortable apartment with basic kitchen items. We found the supermarket and bought a few supplies and lunch from the local bakery. The afternoon was spent wandering the streets and the waterfront and enjoying the views. We ran into Tracey and Dave Evans from the cruise, who were on their way to the cable car which takes you to Fort Imperial overlooking Dubrovnik. It has been closed since April because of a dispute between the owners and local government and only reopened again that morning. Lucky us! Apart from the fort, museum, a restaurant there are many walking tracks. The views over Dubrovnik were spectacular and well worth the 200 kuna cost ($50 approx). That night we had dinner in the apartment with wine we’d bought at a winery near Split.

Sunday 30th June

Today 8.30 we started to walk the city walls. With over 1000 steps it takes about 1 and a half hours. With beautiful views over the city and ocean it was worth the effort.

After lunch we visited a Salvador Dali print/lithograph exhibition which was quite interesting. No original paintings unfortunately. Then a walk to Fort Lovrijenac which features in The Game of Thrones series. Much of the series was filmed in Dubrovnik and there are many tours and souvenir shops with that theme. The fort gave great views back toward the Old Town. While there we noticed a small beach on the other side so walked there for a refreshing swim. The temperatures are down to about 33/34.

We decided to have dinner at the restaurant below our accommodation, Roko House.

Monday 1st July.

Today we took a local bus to Babin kuk and Lapad  which is the resort/ yachting area of Dubrovnik. Lots of swimming areas, restaurants and bars. Back to the Old Town for lunch and a break before setting off to see a few more cobble stoned alleyways and streets. Tonight’s dinner will be with Tracey, Dave, Barbara and Joy all from the cruse.

Tomorrow Tuesday 2nd July we check out of Roko House and take a boat to Cavtat 40 mins down the coast where we will spend the night before beginning the long flight home at 7.30am on Wednesday.

Dubrovnik Harbour, Defensive Tower on the wall, Swimming beach (pebbles of course)

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Adriatic 1

Saturday 22nd June – Stadi Grad on Hvar


We had a walking tour this morning before boarding the New Star for our journey through the islands off the Dalmatian coast.

Departed split at 1.30pm with lunch at 2pm. About 4pm we stopped off Bol for a swim at the famous Golden Horn Beach before continuing to our over night stop at Stadi Grad. This town is a typical tourist sea side resort with lots of restaurants and bars. As it was a long weekend there were many yachts in port as well as cruise ships. 

Sunday 23rd June

Today we left the boat for a 1 hour walking tour before taking a bus to 2 small fishing towns before lunch at a local winery. Lunch was a traditional Croatian peka meal  of meat and vegetables baked in an iron pot over coals.

Our boat had to move to the ferry wharf as other boats needed the moorings. When we arrived on board we were told that because of rough seas we wouldn’t be leaving port for Hvar town. Many other boats were in the same situation and moored tethered to us. Stasi Grad was a half hour pleasant walk along the sea shore for a drink and light dinner.

Monday 24th June Hvar town on Hvar

The seas had calmed so we left for Hvar town on the other side of the island of Hvar. We cruised slowly past small inhabited inlets and coves which were beautiful.

We arrived off Hvar at about 11am. For some reason boats can’t moore until 9pm. Most went for a swim with the water warm but a little choppy and very salty. You could tree water with very little movement and effort.

A water taxi came for us at 5pm and dropped us ashore. Nicolette gave us a brief tour.

We wanted to visit the Benedictine Monastery and Museum but it was closed. The Nuns make lace out of agave thread. Further checks during the night and it was still closed. The small church next door was open for a service at 7.30 and the Nuns were in there.

We walked the foreshore and had a drink in one of the many bars after which we explored the town further. The boat was moored by 9pm.

Tuesday 25th June Croatian National Day.

We left Hvar early for the Blue Caves on Bisevo Island. Its extremely popular and we arrived relatively early for our tour. The sunlight reflects through the cave giving it the blue and aqua shades.

After the magnificent cave tour we stopped for another swim before arriving in Vis on Vis Island. There is always a town named after the island. Vis Island was closed by the Yugoslav army when it became a military zone until the late 80’s. The island is one of the furthest Dalmatian islands from the mainland and is fast becoming a tourist destination. We walked up to the fort from which we had magnificent views over the Adriatic to the west and south. Dinner was in a small family owned restaurant off the main tourist route.

Our ship the New Star, Us on boat before entering Blue Cave, A view of Hvar port.

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Plitvice Lakes

Thursday 20th June


Today we left Bale for Plitvice Lakes a UNESCO listed national park.  We arrived at 12.30 and after lunch met our local guide who took us for a two-and-a-half-hour walk around the Upper Lakes which lie on limestone bedrock. The scenery was spectacular with 16 lakes connected by cascading waterfalls surrounded by wooded hills and lush forest vegetation. Our hotel tonight is Ethos Houses Plitvica Selo a rather rustic looking place with accommodation in “houses” of about 6 rooms.  Reminds us of a ski lodge. They are traditionally called LIKA and are wooden load bearing structures made of beams and columns with woodworking joints.

Friday 21st June

We continued our exploration of the Park with a visit to the Lower Lakes. Very spectacular, maybe more impressive than the upper. Then we depart on a picturesque drive through the heart of Croatia towards the Adriatic Sea. We stopped at the local Bibich Winery in Skradin where we tasted wines and foods from the region. A delicious 5 course degustation-style lunch with matching wines.

Our journey continues to Split where we arrived in the late afternoon.

The first photo is a waterfall among the Upper Lakes, the second shows one section of the cascades of the Lower Lakes

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Venice, Slovenia, Croatia

Venice

Thursday 13th June. Today we took our flight to Venice. The transfer from the airport to the Carlton Hotel was via a private water taxi. It was a very rough journey until we reached the Grand canal. The hotel was old but very comfortable. After check-in we took a walk around the area, along small streets and alleys. We found a lovely restaurant for dinner which was on a canal with a small balcony and flower boxes. We managed to find our way back and had a great Italian meal.


Friday 14th June. Today is the official start to our tour but we don’t meet until 6pm. We took the local ferry to St Marks Square. It took about 40 mins with many stops.It was quite hot so we walked to the Square via the many alleys that are in the area. The Square was crowded with long queues to the tower and into the cathedral so we decided to walk the perimeter instead. We visited a great exhibition by Carla Tolomes who uses fabric to create wonderful chairs designs of flowers, animals and birds on chairs. Our walk back to the hotel was via Rialto again not the direct route but through alleys which are less crowded. At 6pm we met the other members of the group and our tour guide, Maja. The group is Aussie but includes one NZ couple. 3 more Aussie couples will join its in Zagreb which will make a bus tour of 23. More people will join us for the cruise.We had a Welcome dinner together and everyone seems to be getting on quite well.


SLOVENIA
Saturday 15th June Today we head for Lake Bled via Postojna. We met our bus driver – Ivanci. After 3 hours driving through breathtaking scenery we arrived at Postonjna, home to Slovenia’s largest cave system. We barded an electric train that took us 2kms into the mountain and then proceeded on a guided walk for 11/2 hours through some magnificent limestone formations.
After the cave visit we continued to Lake Bled where our site seeing started at the castle chichis perched on top of a high cliff above the lake.There were some very impressive views. Lake Bled is 2km long and is used for international rowing competitions and has numerous permanent courses set up along its length. An idyllic place.

Sunday 16th June. An early start this morning as we took a traditional plenta boat to a small island in the middle of the lake to visit its iconic 15th cent church. We then travelled to a small local farm where they make cheese and walnut liqueur. The cheese, liqueur, salami were very tasty. We all took a turn churning cream to butter which eventually happened.
The next stop was Bohinj a small town in the Julian Alps where took a cable car up Mount Vogel to the ski fields and walking area. The views over the valley were spectacular.

Monday 17th June. Slovenia to Zagreb, Croatia.
First we drove to Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital for a walking tour of the town and a visit to the castle.
We crossed both borders very quickly and drove to Zagreb, capital of Croatia. After a coffee and money changing we met our local guide, Sanya, who took us for an 11/2 hour walk through the old town. Dinner tonight was with the group at a local restaurant.

Tuesday 18th June. Bale, Istrian Peninsular.
Our first stop this morning was the town of Opatija on Kvarner Bay. Its a popular seaside resort with along history stretching back to the Hapsburgs. Near Bale we called into a family owned olive farm for an oil tasting. An interesting experience. We then went to a family owned small B&B for lunch. the restaurant doesn’t open to the public just guests and private groups. The meal a pasta goulash was delicious. Then to our hotel which is 8 homes incorporated into a small hotel. It is old but renovated and very comfortable. Maya took us for a short walk around the old town before a light dinner.

Wednesday 19th June. Today was a visit further into the Istrian Peninsular. Our first  stop was the old village of Roving where we walked through the old town with its quaint alleys and cobblestone streets. There were beautiful views from the church on the hill over the coastline. It still retains much of its venetian heritage when this area was part of the Italian state. After lunch in a local restaurant we drove to the ancient town of Pula which was founded over 3,000 years ago by the Romans. We visited the 1st century amphitheatre but couldn’t go inside as they were setting up for a concert tonight by Foo Fighters.  Dinner tonight back in Bale at a local tavern.

The first photo is one of Carla Tolomes’s chairs, next Mum in Venice, 3rd View of Lake Bled from the castle.

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Vienna

Tuesday 4th June. We were picked up on time by a shuttle bus for the 21/2 hour drive to Vienna arriving around midday. The trip took us through beautiful country side and pastures.  Paul dropped us at the Apartment at 1,30pm however there was no-one there! The building had secure locking. No answer from the ‘phone number on our booking sheet. After some time john stayed in the street with our bags while  I went up to the visitor centre, which was nearby, and asked them to phone –  again no answer. The Visitors Centre managed to get in contact at about 2.30pm. The man basically said there was no booking, but I insisted there was and gave him ref numbers. He said someone would contact me by email. At 6.45pm and after numerous phone calls with him still saying someone will email we decided to ask the VC to find us accommodation for the night. They were closing at 7pm. They found Pension Suzanne which was in the same street. We settled in, small room but very comfortable. The owner was very polite and friendly. We had dinner at a small Italian Rest -Angelos a family rest, which was very good. Being the middle of the night in Canberra we emailed Trish, our travel agent in Canberra explaining the situation.


Wednesday 5th June. My birthday. Breakfast was a treat – white table cloths, buffet, the owner walking around greeting you. He told us we could leave our bags for the day to continue site seeing and until our accommodation was confirmed. Trish got back to us quite concerned and said her supplier was trying to find us something else. We left Suzanne’s about 10 for a walk to St Stephen’s Cathedral, then to the Spanish Riding school to find out where to go for the practice session tomorrow. We continued walking around the Museum Quarter and the city area.  The horses were going to be today but we decided to leave it so we could keep checking emails from Trish – nothing from the original accommodation! We had a message to say that Hotel Adagio was booked about 25mi walk from where we wanted to be but it turned out to be very modern, comfortable and close to train station. When the staff found out it was my birthday they gave me chocolates and champagne, which was very thoughtful. Dinner was at a typical Austrian pub recommended by a staff member. It was outdoors, lots of people coming and going.

Thursday 6th June. This morning we set off to see the Lippizan horses at the Riding school at their practice/exercise session. Unfortunately the performance was the day we were leaving. We spent 2 hours watching them go through their individual routines. Each horse has one routine that only it masters. Lunch at nearby Starbucks!!  At least they sold sandwiches. A walk back to the Museum Quarter to the Modern Art Gallery for an exhibition entitled ‘Vertigo’ which included paintings and light displays.

Friday 7th June. We had a late start taking the train to Schromburg Castle. We walked the gardens until our tour started at 3pm. We had an excellent one hour tour with a very good guide who explained the history of Austria and the region which is intertwined with Czech Rep and Hungary. Dinner was back at Angelo’s.

The Schromberg  Palace original home of the Hapsburgs

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Budapest

Saturday 8th June. We used the city trains to get  to the Station for our train to Budapest. Again a 21/2 hour trip. From Keleti station we had a long walk to our accommodation which is near the Danube in the Jewish Quarter. A very convenient location. The apartment, Helena, Flat 804 was 1 bedroom, very modern, wifi, washing machine, dishwasher etc. Trendy Apartments have many scattered around the area. After a rest we took an orientation walk, found a craft market and supermarket. Decided on take away Turkish.


Sunday 9th June. We walked to St Stephens Basilica – a mass was in progress but visitors allowed in. Then across the Chain Bridge with spans the Danube to the funicular on the Buda side that takes you up to the castle. 6euros for over 65’s. Decided to start with the museum – free for over 70’s. This is self guided so we started with the lower levels and worked our way up. In the lower chambers you see the excavations of storerooms, chapels, parts of towers, staircases and dungeons. The upper floors give more of the historical content of reigns of kings plus artefacts, china , paintings. It was a very impressive museum. We intended visiting the art gallery but  decided we’d done enough for one day so walked along the foreshore to Margrit Bridge. It was here on the Pest side that last week, a river cruise ship and local boat collided with the cruise ship pushing the boat under water with many loss of life – South Koreans. Today the dredges were still there plus international news teams.We walked passed the Parliament building to the Bronze shoes, there to represent the Jews who were walked into the water and shot by the fascists during  WW2.  Dinner tonight at Vak Varju Hungarian Rest recommended by Marti at Trendy.Very busy, vibrant and popular place we made a booking.

Monday 10th June. It turned out to be Whit Monday holiday  not only for museums  but lots of other places we wanted to visit. The Market Hall was closed as was the Whale Building so we took No 2 tram along the river to Parliament House only to find all tours for the day in English were booked, and you can’t go in without a tour! Next plan was to take a train to the Park. The museums were closed normally on a Monday so the onlything to do was have such, enjoy the paddle boats on the lake and the serenity. Afternoon tea was at a Portuguese cafe with Portuguese tarts.

Tuesday11th June. Danube Bend Tour. Our pickup was over half an hour late. We were about to give up when a cab pulled up and asked if were waiting for a site seeing tour his friend will be here shortly. Sure enough he turned up a few mins later. Some major roads were closed due to the removal the sunken boat and traffic was very heavy. We knew that because our street was stop/start from 8.30. The bus was waiting for us and a few other late comers.Our English guide was Judit. First stop was Estzergom which used to be the Hungarian capital. Judith gave us a guided tour of the basilica – the largest in Hungary – with beautiful frescoes on the ceilings. A drive across the Danube into Slovakia (which used to be part of Hungary) to view the basilica from there. 
Half an hour away was Visegrad with its castle perched on top of a rocky hill.  The fortifications are mid 13th cent with a spectacular view across the Danube into Slovakia. We walked up to the top of the castle and managed to see some of the restored rooms in the time we had there. Such was in a local hotel where we had something quick so we could explore part of the town.
Next stop Szerlendre, a baroque town built as the gateway of the Danube Bend. It is an artists village with painters, ceramicists and other crafts. Again cobblestone, narrow streets. We visited Margit Kovacs ceramic museum. Shows an artist who lived in the village all her life but renowned throughout the world. She worked through the Art Nouveau period to the 1970’s. Her ceramics went around the world and she was visited by heads of state and royalty.
The hour long cruise down the Danube was tranquil and very pleasant. Dinner at small asian restaurant.

Wednesday 12th June. Today we visited the Hungarian National Museum. A museum of political history from 1100AD when Stephen 1 reigned. The exhibits proceeded through the centuries with a lot of information on WW1 & WW2 then the Hungarian Revolution and Russian occupation.
After lunch walked the nearby Central Market Hall a 19th century iron-frame construction, reopened in 1994 after renovation as a fresh food market and folk craft centre.
Later in the afternoon we took a walk to the Jewish Synagogue – the largest in Europe seating 3000 people. It was used by the Germans during WW2 as stables and communication centre. They took away many artifacts but left the building standing. A fascinating tour revealing the history of the area in troubled times.

The first photo is the Tree of Life in the Jewish Synagogue. The leaves have names of those Jews killed during WW2. 2nd on the Danube trip from Slovakian side looking towards the Basilica

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Prague/Cesky Krumlov

Our flight from Canberra was very long but uneventful. Canberra to Singapore direct where we had 6 hours to spare so took a free bus tour of Singapore. Then to Frankfurt for a short transit then to Prague where a driver was waiting for us at the airport (23.15 Tuesday 28 May) to take us on the 20 minute ride into the city. We checked in at Ritchie’s Hotel in the Old Town before walking across the narrow street to our Historic City Apartment.  It was clean, comfortable with basic kitchen items, dishwasher, washing machine etc. The street, Karlova, is the main thoroughfare to Charles Bridge – very busy during the day and into the night but the apartment was double windowed and quiet.

Wednesday 29th. Weather fine and around 12 degrees, later about 18 degrees. After breakfast in the hotel across the road, we decided to orientate ourselves with a ‘free’ two-and-a-half-hour walking tour of Prague Old Town/Jewish Quarter. The guide, Zach, was very good, an American whose  only income is tips. During the afternoon we walked across Charles Bridge to Lesser Town and to St Nicholas Church to find out about a concert there Thursday night. We walked passed Lennon Wall across Legionare Bridge to Old Town and Visitor Centre to find out where the bus station was for Sunday’s trip. Also over 70’s have free transport on local trains, trams, buses. The Old Town Square is a hive of activity with many restaurants, a couple of churches, Town Hall and famed Astronomical Clock which strikes on the hour with animated figures. Dinner in a nearby rest/bar.
Thursday 30th. Today we decided to join a ‘free’ tour of Prague Castle – 3 hours with a tram ride to the top. The guide, Tomas, is Czech now living in Prague. About a dozen in the group. The tram took us to the highest point of the castle grounds and from there we walked down through the many viewpoints over Prague and interesting streets. We were given a fantastic history lesson – Tomas’s knowledge was exceptional. Although we didn’t go into the castle building or towers we walked through the beautiful church and the many courtyards. We spoke at echo rock where only YOU hear the echo – amazing. It was built this way so politicians can hear what they sound like making a speech and no-one else can. The tour lasted 31/2 hours and Tomas earned a decent tip. We had a quick lunch returning back to our flat via Krcma Pub where we made a dinner booking for tonight. (Recommended by Zach). At 5.30 we walked back to St Nicholas Church in Lessser Town for the organ and trumpet classical music concert that went for an hour. It was fantastic. Dinner in the pub was good.
Friday 31st. Late start this morning. Walked to Wenceslas Square to visit both the Old and New Museums. The New Museum had an exhibition on the Celts and their growth in this region before heading west to England and Ireland, something neither of us knew. It was a fantastic exhibition, one we will remember. The Old Museum, which reopened last year after renovations had a political exhibition and a 2X100 treasured items on display which included a Thylacine!
Saturday 1st June. A quiet day as we both had rather mild colds. I took a very long walk to a fresh food market along the riverside. On returning visited the island Slovansky ostrov. There was a function in the hall so the exhibition of contemporary Chinese potters was closed. In the afternoon walked to the station to check where we were leaving from tomorrow then to Tesco to pick something up for dinner. Quiet night in.
Prague is a wonderful city. Pleased that we decided to stay in the Old Town area as we were close to everything. Weather cold to start and then became warm, sunny. Our walking tours were with Discover Prague Tours, Celetna St, 12, just off Old Town Sq.
Sunday 2nd Cesky Krumlov. Arrived after a comfortable 21/2 hour bus journey. Room at Residence Museum Vitamin not ready at midday so we left our bags and went for lunch and a walk. This is a World Heritage Town, very historic and picturesque with cobblestone streets and a river dividing the town. We had a light take-away dinner in the room.
Monday 3rd  Today we visited the Castle tower, museum and castle courtyards and gardens.The tower gave an excellent 360deg view of C.K.  We took a walk along the river and saw people in canoes shooting down a channel made especially for this purpose to bypass the rapids. Its a very busy town with lots of eateries and pubs. It was full of tourist groups during the day but much quieter at night. Before dinner at little Italian restaurant we had a glass of wine at a bar overlooking the river and looking up at the castle – very pleasant and peaceful.
Tomorrow we will be picked up by a shuttle company for the 21/2 hour trip to Vienna. – 8 passengers door to door.
Photos: Us at Prague Castle, The river at Cesky showing the castle tower

 

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Cordoba

Tuesday 19th Our last full day in Seville and we walked to Plaza Espana. A magnificent expanse of pavement, fountains and a moat surrouonded by a huge three-story ornate semi-circular bulding, the whole area built for the 1992 Expo. There were many buskers, stalls and flamenco dancers. All very touristy. We then walked to the river and took an hour cruise which gave a different perspective of Seville. A quiet afternoon with a bit of shopping.

Wednesday 20th After we packed we spent the morning walking parts of the Jewish quarter we hadn’t seen. There were many beautiful courtyards and alleys away from the tourist areas. The train left Santa Justa station at 1.30 for the 11/4 hour trip to Cordoba with speeds reaching 160kms. Our hotel is again on the edge of the Jewish quarter and the same chain as our hotel in Seville – The Casa de la Juderia. Its an old building that has been renovated/modernised but without the intricate passage ways of Seville. We received a room upgrade which gives us a larger room with a couple of expansive windows. Once unpacked we took to the streets to orientate ourselves. We walked along the river front, past Mesquita Cathedral to the shopping area. Dinner was tapas in a small plaza. With narrow streets running in all directions we had to keep referring to our map to find our way back to the hotel.

Thursday 21st We found a great cafe for breakfast after which we walked down to Mezquita Cathedral which was built as a Mosque in 784AD. The Romans took it over in 12 36 but didn’t destroy the magnificent architecture of marble columns and arches. The children and grandchildren of the original builder extended the mosque keeping it in the same style so that it eventually housed 15,000 people at prayer time. The Catholics took it over in 1700′s, fortunately retaining most of the features of the Mosque, notably the elaborate tiling and stonework. They put their shrines around the outer walls and built an altar and choir area in the centre. A fascinating juxtaposition of cu;tures and religions. The audio gave us great detail of the Islamic history of this truly magnificent piece of world heritage. The afternoon was spent at Museo of the local painter Julio Romero de Torres who died in 1931. His beautiful portraits are housed in a restored 18th century house. Next door, Museo Bellas Artes designed and directed by his father, contained landscapes by his father, religious art and more modern pieces. At 8pm we went to an equestrian show at the Royal Stables of Cordoba with Andalusian horses.The show was fabulous. We returned to the hotel via the Roman Bridge with a walk through the Roman Arch.

Friday 22nd We booked a time to go up the bell tower at Mezquita – 12.30pm Walked to Alcazar de Los Reyes Cristianos an ancient fortress which became the residence of the Catholic monarchs for 8 years. It was once the primary residence of Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand. In later years it was converted into a prison. Originally built in 1328, it has been restored and the beautiful, formal gardens have been recreated. It was declared a Cultural interest Heritage site in 1931 and also forms part of the Cordoba Old city UNESCO World Heritage site declared in 1994. The climb up the Bell Tower was taxing but worthwhile for the views right across Cordoba. After a light lunch we sided with the locals and took a siesta – most things close between 2 and 5pm – then a walk to check the shops before dinner.

The weather has been hot 33 deg + most days and no rain.

Saturday 23rd Our last day in Cordoba we walked the Roman Bridge and visited Calaharra Tower which sits at the end of the bridge. It was the fortified gate of Roman times and is now a museum. Train to Madrid at 12.30pm – about 2 hours.

Flight home Sunday 24th

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Ronda/Seville

Wednesday13th Our last day in Lisbon included a hop on/hop off trip on the river which we took on the “Yellow Boat” to Belem to see the Tower, Maritime Museum and Monastery of St. Jerome. Belem Tower was built by King– in 14.. on the river bank as a look out/gun emplacement guarding Lisbon. The Maritime Museum tells the naval history of Portugal as well as displaying many royal barges and boats. As are all Catholic Monasteries and cathedrals, St Jerome was very elaborate. The architecture was quite inspiring. It holds the tomb of Vasco de Gama. A quiet dinner in the hotel.

Thursday 14th An early call as we left the hotel at 6.30am for the airport and flight to Malaga. We flew over farmland and mountains. Fabulous views. Our taxi was waiting for us for the trip to Ronda about an hour and a half through landscapes of fieads, valleys and rocky mountains. When our room was ready we unpacked then took a walk across the New bridge (350 years old) to the old town. Our room was large with 3 doors each leading onto 3 small balcony, looking over the ravine and stone bridge. Photo included. The old town consisted of many cobble-stoned alleys and plazas with cafes and churches. The area around the hotel included many narrow streets with cafes, clothing/leather stores and the usual tourist shops. We visited the tourist centre to get info about some walks.

Friday 15th We took a walk across the Old Bridge, a narrow stone bridge built during 1300′s, to the Arab Baths. The baths are the best preserved in Europe and has a great display and video presentation on the history and use of the baths. we continued walking along a narrow path outside the city walls to the southern end of the city. This gave a wonderful view of the ancient city walls and fortifications. Walked to the bus station to book bus for Sunday to Seville.Late in the afternoon we took a tour of the Bull Ring. Its the best preserved and biggest in Spain, and had excellent displays and audio description of equine history and equipment and bull fighting. Bullfights are still held in the arena, while across Spain bullfighting is a very divisive issue.

Saturday 16th The weather throughout has been fine and sunny. We visited the Museo Palace de Mondragon – Palace to a Moorish King in 13th century. The Palace houses a great exhibition of the Ronda region from Neolithic times to present. It is one of the best museums we have encountered. The building has been well preserved with 3 architectual styles – Moorish, Jewish and Christian. Before lunch we took a walk down a steep and rather precarious path under the New Bridge. The afternoon we went to the Museo Unicaja Joaquim Peinado – dedicated to Peinado’s art from 1920′s to 1970′s. It also housed sketches by Piçacsso, a good friend of Peinado (the former born in Malaga, the latter in Rondo) . An impressive exhibition. We then walked to the southern exit of the old city to walk around the base of the walls on the western side. The road was steep and cobble stoned. After about 45 mins we stopped at a small hotel at the base of the cliff for coffee. The sheer cliffs are 120 m high. We took a very steep path back up towards the bridge that joined part of the path taken yesterday. Dinner was at a hotel overlooking the cliffs towards the mountains.

Sunday 17th A walk through a park along the cliff top before catching 1pm bus to Seville – a one and 3/4 hour trip. Our hotel in situated at the edge of the old town of Seville and is a series of old houses, converted into hotel accommodation and connected by corridors and small enclosed plazas and even a tunnel under a road to connect the two main sections . The old styles have been preserved and restored – it certainly has ‘character” while very comfortable with all the mod-cons. Took a walk and visited the Cathedral. Again very elaborate with very high ceiling and massive Gothic arches, gold altars and wood-panelled central choir stalls. It also housed the elaborate tomb of Christopher Columbus. The outside garden, though within the Cathedral walls, was planted with orange trees.

Monday 18th We arrived early for the opening of the Real Alcazar at 9.30 as only 750 visitors are allowed in each day. Its the oldest Royal Palace still in use in Europe. It has its origins from 6th century and has been well preserved with stunning Islamic tiling, painted and carved ceilings and walls. The gardens are beautiful, sculptured with many fountains in small courtyards. It was declared a World Heritage site in 1987. We spent 3 and a half hours there. Then a walk through Seville’s central shopping area. Nearby was the Metropol Parasol, said to be the largest wooden structure in the world. It towered like 3 sails above the plaza and street.

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Douro River Cruise

Sunday 3rd September We left Madrid by bus for Barca D’Alva and the start of our river cruise. On the way we stopped at Salamanca the home of a 15th century university, the oldest in Portugal and 2nd oldest in Europe. A great walking tour through town. Arriving at the boat about 5pm – Queen Isabel – we were shown our cabin, then at 6.15 a safety briefing and port talk by Ricardo, the Cruise Manager. Dinner at 7pm.

Monday 4th September Barca D’Alva to Pinhao The tour today (by bus frim the boat) was to Castelo Rodrigo, a 12th century walled village with cobbled streets and alleys. It is one of the 12 historical villages in Portugal where you can almost travel back in time.We found out while on the trip that the village won the category in a nation-wide competition for the most historic village in Portugal. What an achievement! Lets hope it doesn’t lose its charm. Sailed for Pinhao about 1pm arriving at Pocinho Dam the first of six locks we will go through, ranging from 14 metres to 33 metres in drop. Also went under a very low bridge where the upper deck canopy had to be lowered, and even the wheel house lowered with the captain poking his head out of a hatch at the top! Then even he had to duck! Beautiful scenery either side of the river – picture post card around every corner. Dinner at a table with Stefanie and Michael Paine from Vancouver Island, Kim Allen and Bev Nelson from Alabama, Pam and Leo Gale from Melbourne – got on so well together we did this every night.

Tuesday 5th September Pinhao to Regua We chose Quinta do Seixo Visit and wine tasting tour (Sandeman company) – one of the most prestigious wine estates in the Douro Valley with no expense spared on the infrastructure.Then spent a little time walking the streets of Pinhao before departing. Arived Bagauste Dam. Portuguese lesson and cocktail demo during the afternoon. 5pm lecture on Douro Valley and the wine making traditions. Docked at Regua about 3.30, walk up to town before dinner.

Wednesday 6th September Regua to Caldas de Aregos Lamego city tour followed by lunch at Quinta da Pacheca. Visited the impressive church of “Nossa Senhora dos Remedios”. We walked down the 686 steps to the town. Drinks at a Lamego wine bar with local delights before lunch at the wine estate. Tasting of local port wine. Another impressive winery. Arrival at Caldas de Aregos at 7.30pm

Thursday 7th September Caldas de Aregos to Bitetos and Entre-os-Rios The deepest lock in Europe this morning Carrapatelo Dam (33 metres). Visit this morning to Quinta Aveleda known for its stunning gardens and a taste of Vinho Verde (green meaning young white wine) This afternoon we also had a trip to Amarante a heritage town of patron saint Sao Goncalo. Visited the Dominican monastery and then the modern art gallery. Portuguese dinner tonight. A dozen university students (TUNA) performed tonight on the boat – they apologised for being a bit out of practise at the beginning of term but they didn’t need to!

Friday 8th September Entre-Os- Rios to V.N.Gala (POrto) Morning arrival at Crestuma Dam/lock. Afternoon tour to Guimaraes home of the first king of Portugal with its wonderfully preserved old town, unique architecture and little plazaz. A UNESCO World Heritage town. Cooking demonstration of “Pastel de Nata” Portuguese Tarts. Delicious!

Saturday 9th September Porto Porto tour on local tram and walking through the maze of side streets. Tasting of local foods and coffee. Free time in the afternoon was to take a cable car to the top of the bridge, walk down to the lower level and across the bridge to the old part of town Ribiera.Lots of bars and market stalls on the waterfront. A scenic cruise on the boat of Porto at night. Quite charming.

Sunday 10th September – Disembarkation Bus to Lisbon via the old town of Obidos and lunch at a family restaurant on the way. Arrived Lisbon. about 3.30pm. A welcome quiet night, dinner at the hotel.

Monday 11th September Lisbon Walking tour of Lisbon began with a TukTuk ride through the town to a tram stop, then taking the old tram (No 12, No 28 is written in books) to St Jorge Castle which is on the highest of the 7 hills surrounding Lisbon. Back on the TukTuk for a trip thrpugh narrow streets to the waterfront and the Ribiera Markets fora cocquet tasting and tour. The markets were bought by Time Magazine who turned part of it into a food hall which some of the best restaurants and chefs have a stall. Typical Portuguses food at reasonable prices. Dinner at an Italian restaurant with our table-mates from the cruise boat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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